Acids in cosmetics: Are they that good?

What is peeling?

Peeling is the exfoliation of the skin with the help of acids. It helps to remove old cells, stimulates skin renewal and solves problems such as uneven tone, pimples and dullness. The difference between acids and scrubs is that they work chemically without physically damaging the skin. They dissolve the bonds between old cells, rather than "peeling" them off the skin like sandpaper. Hence the main advantage: fewer injuries, more efficiency. But there are nuances.

What acids are used in cosmetics?
We have compiled a mini-cheat sheet on acids to finally dot all the I's.

Acids in cosmetics are divided into three main groups:

1. AHA (alpha hydroxy acids), or “fruit acids”, which are extracted from apples, citrus fruits and sugar cane.

- Glycolic acid. It has the highest penetrating power and works effectively even in low concentrations.

- Lactic acid. Cosmetics use products extracted from starch or synthesized chemically. Gently exfoliates, good at fighting dullness.

- Malic acid. Gently softens dead skin.

- Tartaric acid. Tightens the skin, removes dead skin cells and regulates the pH balance.

- Citric acid. It has a large molecular weight and has a much milder peeling effect.

- Almond acid. It has a relatively large molecular weight, the effect is limited to shallow layers.

Thus, peeling does not necessarily have to be aggressive, natural ingredients also perfectly eliminate dullness and roughness. And not only on the face, but also on the whole body - this is how PELICAN Marine Peeling Soap works based on natural AHA acids and fermented pink honey. And thanks to natural scrubbing particles, areas prone to roughening of the skin (for example, heels and elbows) will regain their softness and tenderness. 

2. BHA (beta-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid. It has a stronger exfoliating effect than AHA. It is able to remove dead skin cells and sebaceous plugs from the pores. At the same time, it irritates the skin more and is more likely to cause side effects, such as redness.

An interesting product with BHA acids is a fermented seawater-based scrub with rosemary and essential oils La Sincere La Sincia IN/OUT Medicinal Body Scrub . White strawberry juice tones, rejuvenates and has a peeling effect due to the content of salicylic acid in it. The scrub can be used all over the body, in addition, the product regulates the activity of the sebaceous glands - with regular use, you can give up the antiperspirant.

3. PHA is a new generation of acids. They not only gently exfoliate, but also moisturize and have an antioxidant effect. Ideal for dry and sensitive skin.

The pros and cons of acids

The main advantages:

1. Skin renewal. Acid care stimulates the natural process of cell renewal. The skin becomes smooth, radiant and youthful.

2. Versatility. They are included in creams, serums, lotions and even washbasins. They are easy to add to your beauty routine.

It is not necessary to buy a separate jar of "acids", just "add" them to almost any step of skin care. For example, AHA acids are already present in the composition of the cleansing oil for face RECORESERUM BIJOU DE MER Fill beauté Renewal Cleansing Oil It not only removes makeup and dirt, but also narrows pores and reduces sebum levels on the surface thanks to the MINIPORYL™ complex.

3. Struggle with imperfections. Acne, pigmentation, uneven tone — acids solve all this in one fell swoop.

Another huge plus is the constant improvement of technologies based on the existing "base". Thus, the professional probiotic anti-aging peeling Direia Stem Peeling Essence Probiotic Rejuvenating Professional Peeling contains not only two types of AHA acids (this is the base!), but also a patented complex with human stem cell culture, collagen peptides and vitamin C derivatives, as well as innovative 3D nanotechnology for delivering ingredients to the deep layers of the skin. The product is designed for beauty salons, but you can also use it at home. 

The main disadvantages:

1. Skin irritation. Do not think that more acids = faster results. This is fraught with irritation and peeling.

2. Hydration is a must! After peeling, the skin becomes more susceptible to dryness, you can not do without a moisturizer. 

3. Sun protection — masthave. Acids make the skin sensitive to ultraviolet light. If you forget about SPF, you risk getting pigmented spots.

If you have sensitive skin, it is better to start with mild formulas (for example, with PHA). And for those who have recently undergone laser treatment or are actively fighting inflammation, it is better to temporarily postpone acidic remedies.

Conclusion: acids are good, but in moderation

Cosmetics with acids really work, but it is important to know the measure. Choose products that are suitable for your skin type, follow the instructions and do not forget about moisturizing and sun protection. This is the only way to get healthy and radiant skin without side effects.